BABANANGO VALLEY PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE:
Enjoy the space and beauty of the magnificent Babanango Valley Private Nature Reserve, take a guided walk or simply meander along the 30 km of self-guided walking trails, birdwatching and wandering among the Zebra and Impala.
The Babanango Valley Private Nature Reserve is situated in a north facing valley, compassing the mountains on both sides. The Nsubeni, a small perennial river flows through the center. The scenic beauty is emphasised by well-vegetated granite koppies, quartzite ridges and sandstone cliffs.
Background to the Reserve:
In January 1961, Bob and Patricia Turner purchased 1806 ha of land comprising two portions of the farm "Goudhoek" and one of the farm "Nonparei", the whole of which they called "Goudhoek". Goudhoek was in a degraded state when it was purchased: there were no improvements, the veld was over grazed and every arable area had been put to the plough. A conservation ethic has been the primary guiding principle in management. Goudhoek was fenced, erosion gullies were packed with stone walls to reduce soil erosion and dams were built. The building of the homestead was completed in March 1972. Hunting and snaring was stopped with the result that the numbers of existing animal species increased. In 1975 Impala were introduced.
In just two decades, Goudhoek was restored, with great effort, to the magnificent condition in which it is now. In August 1986, Goudhoek was proclaimed a natural Heritage Site (site no 30). As a consequence the programme of increasing production through intensification by establishing pastures along the river lands was terminated and the existing area of pasture were abandoned to allow them to revert to natural grassland. In 1990, management efforts of Bob and Patricia were recognised by the Grassland Society of South Africa when they where runners up in the prestigious "Grassland Farmer of the Year award."
In 1987 we made successful application to the Natal Parks Board to establish a conservancy. Because of lack of interest from neighbours, we did not consider the costs of Game guards on our own necessary. In 1993, we joined the Melmoth Conservancy. Because Game Guards were shared and because we were not directly adjoining the other participants it was only partially successful. In 1996, we once again split from the Melmoth Conservancy and on our own again forming the Babanango Valley Conservancy - and this time with more success. In July 2001 we were able to take on two Bushmen as full time game guards. In June of 1992 a second and adjoining portion on "Nonpareil", 139 ha in extent, was purchased. In August 1997 another adjoining farm "Paardeplaat", 1108 ha in extent, was added. The size of the Babanango Valley Conservancy is now 3053 ha (7570 acres).
When Bob and Patricia's son John and his wife Meryn returned to "Goudhoek" in July 1990, Bob and Patricia built themselves a cottage nearby and John & Meryn moved into the main homestead on Goudhoek. They recognised the potential for converting the Private Nature Reserve into a lodge and alterations were started in January 1991. Babanango Valley Lodge was opened on 1 July 1991. The Environmental Adventures for youth groups was started simultaneously. Both the Lodge and the Environmental Adventures have grown beyond expectations. In September 2o01, Rock Pools bush Camp with 9 cottages under canvas were completed.
The natural heritage program was started in order to provide individuals with an opportunity of actively participating in conservation. It is a cooperative program between the department of Environment Affairs and Tourism, Schneider South Africa, government conservation bodies and private landowners. Areas containing special plant communities, good examples of aquatic habitats, sensitive catchment areas, and habitats of threatened or endangered species and outstanding natural features qualify for registration. The program entails voluntary participation and is a pledge by the landowner to conserve the site for posterity.
The Conservancy programme was started by the Natal Parks Board in an effort to involve farmers in the conservation effort in Natal, for they realised that conservation practice on farms is as important as that in Game reserves. To this end, they undertook to train Game Guards free of charge. The conservancy, however, retains the responsibility to equip and bear the running costs associated with it. The benefits go beyond anti-poaching: in general, conservancies have experienced a reduction in trespass, stock theft, general security and maintenance (as breakage's are reported).
Over the years we have experienced great excitement at seeing new animal species move in and establish themselves starting with Steenbok, Caracal and Bushpig. More recently Bushbuck have been heard on a regular basis and in November 1996 the first sighting of a Kudu bull was reported by our herdsmen. Geordie followed up on that in January 1997 with a sighting of a Kudu cow. There have been numerous sightings since then. We just hope that the number of Kudu will build and that we will start seeing them on a more regular basis. We have embarked on a steady game reintroduction programme.
On 27th June 1998 a herd of eight Burchell's Zebra were introduced: three stallions and five mares. A foal was born in October 1998 and two more in December 1999. On 17 June 1999 eight Red Hartebeest were delivered and kept for three days in our boma. Unfortunately one was injured in transport and despite the efforts of a vet, succumbed to injury. They have settled on a higher altitude area on a neighbouring property. On 30 June 1999 seven Warthog were introduced, six of which survived the transportation and release. In July 1999 a further 47 Impala were introduced. This was considered essential to increase the genetic diversity.
Our vision was always to transform Goudhoek into a Private Nature Reserve. This transformation was started in 1996 when we started removing some fences in strategic places. In May 1999, the last of the beef herd was sold and since then the fences have been removed. The transformation is now complete.
The conservation work is still continuing, for although the wounds of those past years of mismanagement have healed, the scars of those years are still visible in many places. It may take years - game is expensive to purchase - and even though much of our vision is still but a dream, we are determined to change the dream fully into reality.
Physical description and Geology
The Babanango Valley Private Nature Reserve is situated in a north-facing valley, encompassing the mountains on both sides. The Nsubeni, a small perennial river flows through the centre. The scenic beauty is emphasised by well-vegetated granite koppies, quartzite ridges and sandstone cliffs.
The granites (igneous rocks) date back 3200 to 3400 million years. There are exposures of schists (metamorphic rock) which are known to be a little older than the granites because they occur adjacent to them and there is a melt zone where the heat from the molten larva of the granites melted the schists. These formations, which cover the north eastern parts of KwaZulu-Natal and extend into Swaziland, are the second oldest rocks in the world (the oldest formations being found in Iceland).
More recently, about 240 million years ago, the area was subject to glaciation and with sedimentation giving rise to sandstone (sedimentary rock) formation. This story is beautifully illustrated in the tillite cliffs directly behind the lodge, where turbulent stream flows, mud slides and periods of calm water flow can easily be seen. Both the exposed glacial pavements a little further up the Valley and the multitude of beautiful stones lying scattered on the slopes below the cliffs, carried here from distant parts by the ice bear witness to these events. It was only 180 million years ago that the dolerite (igneous rock) intruded in to the sandstone and formed dykes and sills, examples of which can be clearly seen. Even more recent about 160 million years, are the quartzite intrusions (igneous rock) with which the mineral deposits are associated.
The Nature Reserve is located in a transition between Highveld and Lowveld. There is a difference of about 550 m (1800 ft) in altitude between the highest and lowest points on Goudhoek (the Lodge is at 930 m above sea level). This gives rise to a rich diversity and interesting mixture of fauna and flora which include both typically Highveld and Lowveld species.
Places of Historical interest:
There are several places of historical interest in the Babanango Valley Private Nature Reserve.
* The old copper mine with its workings and associated ruins, was mined between about 1900 and 1910. Here one can see the remnants of the water furrow, the position of the water wheel, the area where the higher grade ore was extracted, the channeling of the stream, some of the shafts and what we assume was the site for the storage of explosives and the ruins of many old buildings.
* The ruins of the mine managers house. The dwelling was later partly torn down by a "bywoner" (tenant) to construct two rondavels.
* Wagon tracks cut into a sandstone ridge between the mine house and Monkey Kop. The route was used for the removal of ore from the mine.
* An isiVivane, a cairn of stones developed as a result of superstition by Zulu travelers of old. Any traveler passing by would spit on a small round stone and throw it onto the pile to avert the wrath of the spirits or misfortune and so secure safe passage.
* A cave in the cliffs which was probably inhabited circa 1800-1860. Some pottery shards and bone fragments were found in them. The person who first entered (a visitor) initially removed three pieces of pottery but the pieces have been kept in the display cabinet in the lounge.
* Stone age sites (dated 150 000 to 50 000 BC) have been discovered. Some artifacts from these are also in the display cabinet.
* Rock art. These have only just been discovered (31 August 1998) by Geordie Gartrell. The location is Monkeykop. They are not very clear but nonetheless there!
Fauna:
The number of species listed is large and diverse considering the past management history. Many people, in their enthusiasm for the "big and hairy", miss out on the little creatures of this world. There are few "big and hairy" here, so visitors will largely be confined to looking at the lesser mortals of the Animal Kingdom. This does not imply, however, that animal viewing is not exciting. The bird life is prolific and some of the most vibrant colours in the animal kingdom are seen amongst the insects.
Mammals:
the number of 53 mammals recorded is rather surprising because there is little evidence at first glance that such a variety exists. Most of those listed are small, rare or nocturnal. Perhaps the most exciting result of stopping ranching and increasing protection for wildlife is the increase in smaller carnivores such as Caracal, Serval, Civets, African Wildcat, Genets and Honey Badger. This could be attributed to the increase in grass foliage (through not being consumed) and therefore also the increase in rodents and therefore also the supply of food for the carnivores.
Birds:
The bird life in the Babanango Valley Private Reserve is quite outstanding - a total of 253 species. What is most remarkable is the mixture of species. Because of the location of the Nature Reserve on the zone between the Highveld and the Lowveld, it gives rise to a rather unique species mix. Some of the typically Highveld species recorded are Ground Woodpecker, Buff-streaked Chat, Blackwinged plover, Malachite Sunbird, Sentinel Rock Thrush and Bald Ibis. Among the typically Lowveld and Coastal species are Natal Robin, Half-collared Kingfisher, Purple Crested Lourie, Yellowthroated Longclaw and Striped Kingfisher.
Thirteen species occur which are listed in the South African Red Data Book - Birds. Of the seventeen vulnerable species listed for South Africa, six have been recorded here, namely Cape Vulture, Lappetfaced Vulture, Martial Eagle, Bateleur, Stanley's Bustard and Ground Hornbill, the latter which nest in the Nature Reserve. Of the thirty five intermediate species listed for South Africa (suspected of belonging to any of the three previous categories but for which insufficient information is available) four have been recorded here, namely Dwarf Bittern, Black Stork (nesting), Grass Owl and House Martin.
Thirty-three raptors occur, several of which nest here, including Black Eagle, Tawny Eagle, African Hawk Eagle, Wahlberg's eagle, jackal Buzzard, Gymnogene, Lanner Falcon and Rock Kestrel. The best time for raptors is July to November when they are on the nest and rearing young. The nature reserve is also the location of the nesting record of Giant Eagle Owl in KwaZulu-Natal. In 1981 a Wahlberg's eagle nest near the old copper mine was used. In August 1998 another nest was discovered also in an old Wahlberg's Eagle nest on iSundu.
Reptiles:
Of the 35 species recorded in the Babananago Valley Private Nature Reserve, 3 are tortoises, 2 are terrapins, 20 are snakes and 10 are lizards. More work needs to be one to produce a more comprehensive list.
Fish and other river creatures:
John Mellet did a fish survey in August 1999 in the Nsubeni River. He recorded the first four species on the list. A follow up survey is envisaged. Six species of fresh water fish and eel occur. Considering the limited water available in the Babanango Valley Private Nature Reserve, this is rather surprising. Interestingly he also collected freshwater shrimps.
Frogs:
Several species occur although Bob is busy making sound recording for identification. John Mellet identified the two river species listed in the table.
Bull frogs invade the pool in large numbers after rain in the summer months. Other species are attracted to the insects, which are, in turn, attracted by the lights. Frogs sometimes sneak in to the rooms by squeezing under the doors. Beware: if your toes smell like roses - your shoe may become an overnight haven for a frog!
Butterflies:
Very little is known of the butterflies of the area. However, Dr Clive Quickleberg collected 47 species and Clive Curits collected 28 species producing a combined total of 57 species between them. They both estimated that in excess of 100 species would occur in the Babananago Valley Private Nature Reserve.
Scorpions:
In January 2001 a group of students from the University of Witwatersrand visited us. One student, Ian Engelbrecht, was a scorpion fanatic. He collected two species, and promised to be back!! I have to take his word for it.
Flora:
The vegetation comprises savanna (+- 80%) and mountain grassland (+-20%). The savanna is essentially Lowveld Sour Bushveld (because of the granite base rock) but towards the iSundu area it starts verging on more typical Lowveld. The grassland areas are Southern Tall Grassveld.
The distribution of species is often closely linked with soil types. Indeed, we as Grassland Scientist often use species as "indicators" of specific conditions that prevail at a particular location, for example, soil depth, soil texture or waterlogged soil. In addition, species often provide valuable insight into past management practices such as stocking rate, frequency and intensity of fires and grazing management. By reading the story plants tell we know a tremendous amount about the area - and importantly what to do to achieve a particular objective.
Trees:
The diversity of trees in the 8000 aces of the Babanango Valley Private Nature Reserve, 142 indigenous species, is quite remarkable. In addition, there are 4 exotic species. However, every effort is being made to eradicate the exotic species or at least keep them under control. Seeding from adjacent areas will be the biggest factor mitigating against complete eradication.
The largest tree in the Nature Reserve is a magnificent specimen of Ficus salicifolia (Wonderboom). Its branches touch the ground. When it is in fruit, it becomes a hive of activity with the hum of insects and exciting chatter of a great number of insects and fruit-eating birds.
Grasses:
The grasses must surely be the most forgotten family. Grass is everywhere and we depend on them for food (maize, wheat, sugar cane sorghum), recreation (cricket pitches, rugby and soccer fields, golfing greens), building material (thatch) and lawns (parks and gardens). They form the bulk of food for wild animals, big and small. A close look at grasses will reveal amazing beauty. The list of 75 recorded species (69 indigenous and 6 exotic species recorded) is far from complete.
Wildflowers:
Although an abundance of wildflowers, other than trees and grasses, occurs, a comprehensive list is a long way from being compiled. Partly due to the difficulties in identifying the species, particularly in the absence of a comprehensive illustrated guide. A start has been made to developing a herbarium concentrating on wildflowers other than trees and grasses. About 60 specimens have already been pressed and identified by the herbarium in Durban.
HLUHLUWE UMFOLOZI:
This is a large and incredibly scenic park with rippling hills covered in low acacia bush, and lofty viewpoints giving a bird's eye view of who's doing what where. The north of the park is more rugged and mountainous with forests and grasslands, while the south and west is more undulating with open savannah. Hluhluwe is a difficult word to pronounce but something sounding like "Shoushlooee" is close enough.
The park contains an immense diversity of fauna and flora and is particularly famous for its conservation of black and white rhino. It contains hundreds of endangered black rhino and the largest population of white rhino in the world.
Apart from game-viewing drives, there are two self-guided auto trails, for those wishing to self drive themselves around the park. There are a number of picnic sites and several self-guided walks providing magnificent views. Two daily walks in the company of a field ranger can be booked through the camp office and extended several day hikes are undertaken in the southern Umfolozi part of the park.
ANIMALS & BIRDS:
Hluhluwe Umfolozi is home to 1,600 white rhino and 370 black rhino - an impressive number which means you are very likely to see one or both species. It also contains the rest of the Big Five; buffalo, elephant, lion and leopard, as well as many other species including blue wildebeest, zebra, giraffe, waterbuck, nyala, kudu, bushbuck, warthog, cheetah, hyena and jackal plus about 24,000 impala. You may have some close encounters with elephants as they often cross or block the road right in front of your vehicle.
In excess of 300 species of birds have been recorded.
SEASONS:
Rainy Season: This is a hot and humid sub-tropical area and most rain falls during the months of September to April. Annual rainfall is 29-39 inches (750-1,000mm).
Dry Season: The dry season lasts over winter from May to August and the temperatures are very pleasant with warm days and cool nights.
HLUHLUWE AND UMFOLOZI GAME RESERVE SPECIALITIES
· Black and white rhinos
· Rippling scenery with splendid viewpoints
· Self drive, self walk or guided walks
· 'Big Five' animals
· Close encounters with elephants |
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& 
merchants.