VICTORIA FALLS:
"Vic Falls": World Heritage Site - one of the Seven Natural Wonders - Africa's "Adventure Capital" - largest curtain of falling water on earth...
Don't be mistaken by the hype

* 20 years ago Victoria Falls had just less than 100 permanent European residents
* 100 years ago it had just less than 30
* historically "Vic Falls" was only discovered by David Livingstone 5 generations ago
[November 1855].

Today, Victoria Falls remains as evocative a destination as it did to the hunters, surveyors, explorers and missionaries of the 19th Century. Today, the wanderlust is the same, the pursuits are slightly different

* it serves as southern Africa's primary safari gateway
* it has the wildest one day white water rafting trip on the planet
* until recently the highest commercial bungee jump on earth

THE VICTORIA FALLS:

The Zambezi rises in Northern Zambia near Kalene Hill. This watershed is also the origin of one of the tributaries of the Congo. The Zambezi flows south-west into Angola, returning the Zambia where it flows south through the Barotse Plain and on to the Caprivi swamps where it is joined by the Chobe River. From this point it takes an easterly course, forming the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe and on through Mozambique to the Indian Ocean. Its total length is 2 700 kilometres, and it is Africa’s fourth longest river.

At several places in its course it encounters sudden bands of comparatively hard rock through which it must excavate its bed, and at these points, rapids and sometimes waterfalls are formed, marking the uneven erosion of th underlying rock surface. In other areas the river bed is formed of a uniform type of rock and therefore erosion is comparatively even and the river flows smoothly. Usually in such peaceful stretches of the river, the bed is wide, and deposition of material such as sand or gravel, carried along by the river from further up-stream, forms bars or islands. In places where hard rock is encountered, the river tends to narrow and deepen, cutting the easiest course through the barrier, and here erosion rather than deposition is the rule.

In the Victoria Falls area we find both these varieties of river “character” exaggerated to a unique degree. Up-stream from the Falls is a stretch of about twelve kilometres where the river is smooth-running, depositing sand which forms islands, such as Kandahar and Long Islands. About three kilometres up-stream from the Falls, there is a sudden southward bend in the river, the current, becomes faster and more uneven and finally, after a short stretch of rapids, the whole river, here 1 700 metres wide, plunges into a chasm of 108 metres deep which cuts right across its course. Thus a river of nearly two kilometres (over a mile) in width becomes one of only a fraction of that width in a matter of seconds. The river continues through a series of steep, narrow gorges which form a zig-zag pattern for the first eight kilometres and then straighten out into the Batoka Gorge which runs in an easterly direction for about 100 kilometres to the Gwembe Valley where the river has been dammed to form Lake Kariba.

A VISIT TO THE ACTUAL FALLS:
Before starting out, it is as well to remember a few basic facts. Probably the most important thing is that the Falls area is a nature reserve . The paths are well surfaced and allow adequate viewing points, therefore it is unnecessary, and in fact illegal, to leave the path at any stage as this could be unsafe, and would certainly be damaging to the plants which are, in some cases, unique to this strip of forest. It is also illegal to pick flowers or remove any plant from the reserve.

Between December and August it is advisable to take a rain-coat preferably plastic, an umbrella, old shoes and a plastic bag to hold camera and guide book..

Viewpoint no. 1:
Towards Livingstone’s statue the visitor obtains his/her first uninterrupted view of Devil’s Cataract and the first section of Main Falls. Devil’s Cataract, the closest fall, is the lowest of the five falls and represents a weakness in the underlying rock structure through which the river is eroding a channel. Beyond Cataract Island, part of Main Falls is seen and the trees of Livingstone Island nearly half-way along the fall line may be glimpsed from time to time through the spray. The gorge becomes much deeper towards Main Falls and more and more water accumulates and the erosive power of the river increases. Along the top of the cliffs which form the southern (right) side of the gorge, is the Rain Forest through which the path leads to Danger Point (not visible from this point). From the statue, a path leads north (left) along the river bank upstream, but in order to see the rest of the Falls, the visitor must retrace his steps, past the Chain Walk, and take the first left-hand turn which leads into the Rain Forest. Almost immediately, the foliage becomes denser and the trees are draped with vines. To the left is a particularly tangled mass of intertwining trees and woody creepers (Lianes) including the African Mangosteen and a climbing Acacia. A very common creeping plant found here and throughout the Rain Forest is the Potato Creeper with its clusters of mauve and yellow flowers and scarlet berries, similar to those of the Nightshade.

Viewpoint No 2:
Overlooks the Devil’s Cataract and Cataract Island, with the first part of Main Falls to the right. At the edge of this viewing area is a tree which has become almost completely overgrown by a massive Strangler Fig. Although this type of fig can grow as an independent tree, it is more commonly found in its epiphytic form. Beginning life as a seedling growing in a hollow or fork of tree, it sends roots down along the trunk form its point of attachment. These roots become firmly established in the ground and from this point growth is accelerated to such an extent that the host tree is eventually smothered by a criss-cross system of roots which fuse together by natural grafting, forming a sheath around the victim

Viewpoint No. 3:
Is out on a promontory which is usually drenched by showers or spray. Dragon-flies are common in the Devil’s Cataract area, especially in December when one particular species, Palpares cataractae, is found in swarms. A very common bird of this region is the Black-eyed Bulbul, mostly brown and grey but with black crested head and a bright yellow patch beneath the tai. It is one of our few song-birds. Another resident, but one which is rarely seen, is the Livingstone’s Turaco (Loerie). The usual view of the bird is a distant one, as it swoops between tree-tops or across the gorge at Cataract Island. At this distance it appears glossy enough to get a closer view will observe that the head, neck and breast are bright leaf green. There is a prominent tapering crest on the head and the eye is surrounded by a triangle of red, white and black. The back and long tail are metallic blue-black and purple. The red and green colouration is unique in that both colours are true pigments and not due to light refraction as are the colours of other birds. The red pigment contains variable amounts of copper which is absorbed from the fruit on which the bird feeds, the amount of copper in the fruit varying according to the copper content of the soil. In areas where this content is high, excess copper pigment may e deposited in the green breast feathers, giving a purple tinge, a factor which was observed and quickly utilised by prospectors. The sighting of a Turaco with purplish breast feathers was a reliable indication that substantial deposits of copper ore were present in the area.

From Viewpoint No. 3 onwards, it is interesting to note the various animal tracks in the mud beside the path. There is quite a varied mammal population in the Rain Forest area, although the footprints may be the only indication of the presence of some of the shyer animals.

Viewpoint No. 4:
Viewpoint No. 4 is reached by a left hand fork from the main path, just beyond a small rustic bridge. To the left of the auxiliary path is a large, spreading Cape Fig, usually well covered with fruit which grow from leafless, woody branchlets (panicles) straight from the main trunk or branches. This is a favourite feeding place for the Trumpeter Hornbill. This comical large black and white bird is a familiar sight in the Rain Forest and the loud trumpeting or wailing cry may be heard for a considerable distance. The most outstanding feature of this bird is its enormous beak, reminiscent of that of the Toucan, topped by a horny keel-shaped “casque” which appears to have no function other than ornamentation. The eye is surrounded by an area of bare red skin which extends to the base of the beak. The Trumpeter Hornbill nests in a hole in a tree or rock crevice and, in common with other hornbills, the male walls up the hole with mud while the female is incubating, feeding her through a tiny remaining aperture. The female remains in the nest until the young are able to fly, and during her incarceration, she become very fat and loses all her feathers. These are replaced by a new growth while the young birds are fledging. The walling up of the nesting hole renders the female and young almost entirely safe from predators at a time when other birds are at their most vulnerable.

Viewpoint No. 5
Beyond the bridge, the main path leads up to another left-hand detour. At this point, some of the lower trees and shrubs are festooned with the creeping Flame Lily. The flower of this variety is brown and green rather than the bright red and yellow of those growing in more open country, and may be seen during the rainy season. The detour leads to Viewpoint No. 5, where there are fine views of Cataract Island and Main Falls. A variety of hardy plants grow in crevices in the cliffs of Cataract Island, among them, the Aloe, Aloe chabaudii. In many places, these plants grow in more or less horizontal lines across the cliff face. These weaker strips in the basalt which allow plants to gain a hold mark the surfaces of successive lava lows where cooling was rapid and expanding gases tented to produce a porous easily eroded form of basalt. Two birds which frequent the undergrowth and low bushes by the main path are Heuglin’s Robin, a thrush-sized bird with chestnut breast, tail and wings, and black head with a white eye-stripe, and the Paradise Flycatcher. The latter is normally only seen between October and March when it is at its most conspicuous in full breeding plumage. At this time the male sports two very long central tail feathers which trail behind it as it flies, and which are particularly noticeable when the tail is fanned out during the typical courtship display. The colouring is eye-catching, being bright orange-brown with iridescent blue-black head and breast. The eye is surrounded by a ring of bright blue bare skin.

Viewpoint No. 6:
Is the best views of Devil’s Cataract especially in the morning. Livingstone’s statue is visible above the fall. From the point the vegetation becomes very luxuriant on either side of the path and the tall trees are, in some cases, completely overgrown with creepers which are the favourite haunts of many small insect-eating birds such as the Chinspot. This predominantly black and white flycatcher is unusual in that the female is more colourful than the male, the conspicuous breast band being chestnut instead of black. The female also has a chestnut spot on the throat. The tiny Apalis, a pale coloured bird with a thin dark band around the throat may be seen in this region together with two sunbirds, the Collared Sunbird, with metallic green head, back and tail, yellow underparts and a distinctive purple “collar”, and the Scarlet-breasted Sunbird, predominantly black with a brilliant red breast and metallic green crown. The bill is long, slender and curved. Both these sunbirds feed on insects but are also able to feed on nectar from flowers by piercing the base of the flower with the bill.

The undergrowth is rich in ferns of many kinds during the rainy season. A very conspicuous flower of this region is the Blood Lily or Pin-cushion Flower. This blooms between October and December, the large red flower composed of may slender florets being followed by clusters of green berries, ripening to red in January. The leaves are large, light green and shiny, and are conspicuous among the other plants on the forest floor.

Viewpoint No. 7
Provides the best views of the Main Falls. From the right-hand corner of the viewing area it is possible to see the river at the bottom of the gorge. Around this viewpoint and the main path are stands of very tall trees with light-coloured, smooth bark and dark shiny leaves. These are Natal Mahoganies, while a little further on, on the left, are some fine examples of Ebony, enormous trees with rough black bark and small, dark crenellated leaves forming a thick canopy. In this region, many f the trees exhibit an interesting adaptation to swampy conditions common among rain forest trees in many parts of the world. This is the development of “buttresses”, a condition in which the roots form props radiating from some distance up the trunk and spreading out into the ground. This helps to prevent the trees from falling or sinking in the soft waterlogged earth. A fairly common ground orchid of this region is the bright pink and purple Eulophia Livingstoniana which flowers during the rainy season. As the path descends into the region of year-round spray, tall False Date Palms, Cape Figs and Waterberries predominate. Many trees have fallen and provide anchorage for mosses, ferns (including Maidenhar) and orchids. Some of these fallen giants send up new trunks from the old and continue to grow, this applying particularly to the Waterberry. The vegetation tends to form canopies at different levels according to the type of tree or shrub. This effectively prevents much of the light from reaching the ground and instead of the dense tangle of undergrowth seen previously, there is deep, rich humus formed from the dead leaves of the trees above and from the rotting stumps of fallen trees. This is a favourite hunting ground of the Banded Mongoose. These attractive little creatures are often seen in large groups, foraging among the dead leaves and tree stumps for insects, etc. About the size of a small cat, the Banded Mongoose has a ferret-like face and a grey-brown coat with darker bands running across the back. Another mammal often seen in the Rain Forest is the shy Bushbuck, Because of its markings it is not easily seen among the sun-dappled leaves and shadows, but patient observation should prove rewarding. Although it bears a superficial resemblance to certain species of deer found in the northern hemisphere, it is, in fact an antelope bearing horns rather than antlers.

The right-hand turn market “To the Main Road” is a short cut back to the car-park for those who do not wish to continue.

Viewpoints 8, 9 & 10:
All provide views of the Main Falls. When the river is in flood, there is very little to see but torrents of spray. At Viewpoint No 8, a ledge of basalt projects beyond the path and this is gradually being colonised by grass and shrubs. It is extremely unsafe to venture beyond the path at this point. To the left, a good view of the vegetation of the southern edge of the gorge is obtained. Probably due to the constant up-draught from the edge of the cliff and this gives the appearance of a constantly clipped hedge. Only grasses and low shrubs are able to survive the battering by wind and spray at the very edge.

Viewpoint 11:
To the right of the path just before Viewpoint No. 11, is a pool of water which is deep enough to remain for much of the year. Close observation should reveal the presence of purple fresh-water crabs, not easily seen among the leaves at the bottom. These often make short sorties out onto land, and may be seen scrambling about among the rocks at the edge of the cliffs where they are preyed upon b y the Trumpeter Hornbills, whose diet is by no means restricted to fruit.

Viewpoint No. 11, provides wet and intermittent views of Livingstone Island and Rainbow Falls beyond. It was from the grassy ledge above the Livingstone Island precipice that David Livingstone first saw the Falls and it was from that point that he lowered a line to which he had attached some bullets and a square of calico, in order to measure the height of the Falls. At about 90 metres the weight become lodges on a projecting rock still some distance from the bottom, and would go no further. (Serpa pinto, who visited the Falls in 1878, checked this measurement with sextant, allowing himself to be held over the edge by a rope made from the shirts of his bearers). Livingstone planted fruit and coffee seeds on the island (which he unofficially named Garden Island) as he felt that this would provide natural nursery for these crops, but he had reckoned without the tenacity of the local hippos which broke through the specially constructed hippo-proof fence and demolished most of the seedlings.

Beyond this viewpoint, the path emerges completely from the Rain Forest and runs between a narrow strip of open forest on the left and grassland on the right.

Viewpoint No. 12:
The next left-hand branch to Viewpoint No. 12 leads to the edge of the cliff opposite Horseshoe Falls where a small fissure is being excavated by the river into Livingstone Island, forming a horseshoe-shaped indentation. Above this is a deep permanent pool where elephant and hippo may occasionally be seen where the river is low. Towards the end of the dry season, The Falls dry up almost completely beyond this point and the depth and structure of the gorge may be best assessed at this time. Above this is a deep permanent pool where elephant and hippo may occasionally be seen where the river is low. Towards the end of the dry season, The Falls dry up almost completely beyond this point and the depth and structure of the gorge may be best assessed at this time. While the cliffs are dry, swifts, swallows and martins nest of the narrow ledges, and even at the height of the flood, these hardy little birds may be seen hawking for insects in the spray around the windswept precipices.

Viewpoint No. 13:
Is a ledge (very slippery when overlooking the highest of the falls, Rainbow Falls, which reaches a height of 108 metres (355 feet) opposite Danger Point, over the right. A path from Viewpoint No. 13 leads along the edge of the cliff to Danger Point at the end of the promontory. Probably due the high winds during the flood season and the leaching effect of the spray on the soil in this unprotected area, the vegetation is limited to tough grasses and sedges, low shrubs are taller and low trees are growing near the railway fence. During the dry season Waterbuck are often seen here.

To obtain the best view from Danger Point, it is necessary climb onto the rocks, but, as its name implies, the are can be very treacherous, especially when vet, and visitors are strongly advised to keep away from the edge. From this point the two branches of the river are visible, one flowing east from Devil’s Cataract, main Falls and Rainbow Falls, and the other flowing est towards Danger Point from Eastern Cataract. These two branches meet below Danger Point and flow south through the narrow gap in the basalt between Danger Point and the Knife Edge promontory opposite in Zambia. The meeting rivers form a whirlpool, known as the Boiling Pot, and then continue as one river again through the system of gorges to the south into Batoka Gorge and on towards Kariba. Visitors arriving at Danger Point during the flood season will see very little due to a constant deluge of spray, although the Boiling Pot is usually visible. During the dry season, when the flood has subsided, a magnificent view of Eastern Cataract, Rainbow Falls and part of Main Falls is obtained. On the Knife Edge promontory, a dense rain-forest of vegetation is resumed. It is not possible to descend into the gorge from this side of the river, but on the Zambian side there is a path down to the Boiling Pot. On the fall-line opposite Danger Point is the “Armchair”, a natural rounded depression into which the water rushes before spilling over into the gorge below. This is an ancient and very small volcanic vent which is being excavated by the river.

From Danger Point, the main path is resumed and an interesting and pleasant alternative route back is provided to the second left-hand branch which leaves the main path opposite Livingstone Island (the first branch leads to Viewpoint No 14 and a view of the bridge). The alternative route leads through increasingly high grass where baboons, Warthog and Waterbuck are often seen. Hippo frequently wander through this region at night and their tracks are clear, especially where one has been feeding or lying in the grass. Common birds here are the finches already mentioned. Bulbuls, warblers and loud-voiced Coloured Barbet, a colourful bird with red face and throat surrounded by a black “collar” Shrikes are also common, especially the black and white Boubou and puffback Shrikes. The trees on either side of the path are somewhat mixed. Two of particular interest are the Monkey bread and Chinese Lantern trees. The Moneybread bear large partly bifurcated leaves. The fruit are a favourite of the browsing antelopes, and are used by some tribes as a soap substitute, which the bark is used for rope-making and also forms the base for a powerful cough remedy. Powdered root mixed with tobacco makes a potent stimulant and the pods may be ground into a highly nutritious flour. The Chinese Lantern tree is a low, straggling thorny tree with tiny leaves. Between October and January, fluffy pink and yellow flowers hang lantern-like from the branches. Traditionally, the leaves and roots may be chewed and used to cover snake bites and scorpion stings, producing an anaesthetic effect. The wood is hard and durable but of limited use due to the small size of the tree.

The path leads into a grove of Ebonies which form the southern limit of the Rain Forest, and here again, the Strangler Figs are conspicuous. A particularly striking species of spider found among the bushes where it constructs beautiful golden webs. The spider itself is metallic blue with red around the head and gold stripes along the underside.

The path continues through giant trees to join another path from the Rain Forest and bears left through a more open area of Small-pod Bloodwood trees, and on into grassland where Terminalia trees are common. These bear attractive red winged fruits between January and April. The entrance and car-park are reached by a left-hand turn just past the drinking fountain.

UPSTREAM FROM THE FALLS:
Many visitors take a launch cruise to Kandahar Island during their stay at Victoria Falls. Two varieties of cruise are available one which includes a stop at the island for tea (morning and afternoon), and a “Sundowner” cruise in the early evening during the which there is a pause to enable visitors to observe and photograph the sunset, but no actual landing. Probably the first birds to be seen on any launch will be the swallows. There are three species commonly seen between October and March during the northern winter. This swallow has white underpants, a chestnut throat bordered by a black band, iridescent head and wings. It has a strongly forked tail. The Lesser Striped Swallow has a chestnut head and rump and white underparts, striped with black, and the Wire-tailed Swallow, a conspicuous red patch on the head and brilliant white throat and underparts. Another bird whose population seems to vary from year to year, but which is often seen along the stretch of the river, is the Openbill Stork. This is a fairly large black bird with a long, heavy bill which is nearly completely closed, there being a gap between the two mandibles about mid-way along. Its chief food is the fresh-water mussel which it carries from the water to dry ground in the sun and waits for the heat to open the shell. During the dry season, elephants often swim to the islands to feed, and there are usually one or two residing on the island of Kalunda. When swimming, the elephant submerges most of the heavy body, leaving the tip of the trunk above the surface to act as snorkel. Although its diet varies from grasses, reeds and succulent flowering herbs to tough bark and twigs, the elephant can be quite selective in its feeding and certainly has its favourites. One of these is the fruit of the Vegetable Ivory or Mulala (Ilala) Palm , a tree which is very conspicuous along the Zimbabwean shore and on some of the islands. When ripe these fruit are about he size of cricket balls and are composed of four layers equivalent to those of the coconut. There is an outer shiny brown skin, a 6-7mm thick layer of soft, coir-like, fibrous material which is the sweet, edible portion, a opaque white kernel, or seed, which contains a little coconut-like milk. The elephant obtains the fruit, which are suspended in clusters high among the palm fronds, by shaking the tree with trunk and tusks, or by a direct blow withe head (anyone wishing to attempt this will have ample opportunity to do so on Kandahar Island, and in so doing will gain some impression of the strength required). The fruit is swallowed whole, but only the soft, fibrous layer is actually digested, the seed being passed out undamaged in the droppings. The result of this is that a very effective method of Mulala (Ilala) dispersal and cultivation is achieved, the seed germinating and developing in its bed of manure to eventually become a new tree. The old seasonal migration routes of elephants can still be detected by tracing lines of Mulala (Ilala) palms across the country. These are particularly obvious from the air. The Mulala (Ilala) has many commercial uses. The seed is used as a substitute for ivory by curio makers, the leaves are used for mat-making and thatching and provide a jute-like fibre of great strength. They may also be cooked and eaten as a vegetable when very young. The sap is tapped off to make a very potent, sweet palm win.

In the Zambezi National Park area, the visitor may notice tightly woven balls of grass suspended from some of the low trees and bushes overhanging the water. These are the nests of Golden Weavers. The entrance to the nest is on the underside, allowing almost complete protection from predators. Warthogs are often seen in this area. These somewhat comical-looking creatures can prove quite dangerous adversaries when attacked, the ripping power of the prominent curved tusks being quite considerable. The warthog usually makes its home in a hole in the ground which has been abandoned by another species such as the Aardvark. In some cases, the hole is shared with a nocturnal animal, the Warthog using it by night and the other by day. When attacked the Warthog will back into its hole, presenting the enemy with a battery of sharp weapons until it has made its escape completely.

Crocodiles are seen from time to time, and are quite common in the more secluded backwaters and creeks. It is certainly not advisable to swim or paddle in the river. Small ones can often be seen lying along low branches just above the water. A tremendous amount of information about these fascinating creatures can be gained from a visit to the Crocodile Ranch which is aqt present helping to restock the previously depleted stretch of the Zambezi River.

Where the Zambezi Rivers narrow and where the shore-line becomes indented by creeks, there are some prominent sandy hummocks, fringed with flat, grassy promontories, marshes and reed-beds. Dead, half-submerged trees form ideal perching places for several varieties of fishing birds. The most common of these are the Pied Kingfisher, a black and white bird, often seen hovering, then diving into the water to return to it perch with a small fish, and two species of Cormorant, the Reed Cormorant being the commoner of the two. This is a brownish-black bird with a long neck and straight, hook-tipped bill. The tail is unusually long for a cormorant and is often held in a spread position. The young birds have paler underparts. Not to be confused with this form is the larger White-breasted Cormorant whose size and strikingly white breast render it easily distinguishable. It is actually the world’s largest cormorant. Another bird which is often confused with the cormorant is the African Darter, or “Snake Bird”. Although superficially similar to the cormorant it is slimmer, the neck is longer and has a permanent “kink”, and the bill is spear-shaped. The colouring is similar, but the underside of the neck is more brown and there are whitish streaks on the back during breeding season. Both the Darter and the cormorants spend much of the day perching with outspread wings in order to dry the feathers, but in the water, unlike the cormorant, the Darter tends to swim with the body submerged, the snake-like head and neck being the only parts visible.

The grassy margins are often visited by the Hadeda Ibis, a predominantly grey bird with long legs, slender neck and long, gracefully curved bill. There is an iridescent green sheen on the back. The loud, harsh call “Ha He Ha” or “Ha De Ha” is a common sound along this stretch of the river. The smaller back, grey and white White-crowned Plover is often seen at the edge of the water or flying low over the river. Mammals commonly seen here are Waterbuck, with its shaggy coat and conspicuous white ring around the tail, Kudu, larger, less shaggy and with spiral horns as opposed to the lyre-shaped horns of the Waterbuck, mentioned and light chestnut brown in colour. Sable and Buffalo may also be seen in this area, the Sable unmistakable from any other antelope by its large size, the backward sweep of the horns and the very dark brown and white colouring.

The marked difference between the vegetation on the Zambian and Zimbabwean banks is due to the fact that one is National Park where the vegetation is entirely undisturbed by man, and the other is not. The effects of grazing cattle, road-building and the use of certain trees, such as Mulala, for commercial purposes, are to reduce the variety of the trees and shrubs and to give an overall appearance of uniformity.

Nearing Kandahar Island the visitor will almost certainly see Hippo. In the dry season when the water is low, the deeper pools are much fought over, and displays of aggression are common. The Usual warning is the opening of the mouth (often mistaken for yawning) to show the enemy the enormous curved tusks, but another method to mark territory is the raising of the hind quarters above the water, accompanied by defecation and rapid tailwagging, thus effectively spreading the dung over a wide area. This is also performed on land and under the water. The usual view of the hippo, however, is the very top of th head, the ears, the protruding eyes and the tip of the snout. Both eyes, ears and nostrils are set high on the skull, in a similar position to those of the crocodile, and for the same purpose. This adaptation allows both animals to see, hear and breath, while as little as possible of the rest of the body is visible.

One of Africa’s best known birds, The Fish Eagle, is resident here, and its almost hysterical laughing cry is a familiar sound around Kandahar Island. It is an extremely handsome bird with white head, neck and breast, chestnut underparts, and brown and black wings. The tail is white. It spends long periods perched in trees at the edge of the water, from which vantage point it makes swift, plummeting flights to snatch fish from the water in its talons, returning to the branch to eat its catch.

At Kandahar Island the visitor will be met by Vervet Monkeys of all ages.

There is always plenty to interest the keen observer on the island. Some of the trees bear scars where elephants have prised off the bark with their tusks, and there are usually plenty elephant droppings about as proof of recent visits, often with vegetable ivory seeds visible. Quite often, especially during the dry season, the footprints can still e seen in the sand. These are large, shallow oval or roundish depressions with clearly marked wrinkling when fresh. It is said that experienced elephant hunters are able to distinguish between individuals by the wrinkle patterns in the spoor, these being similar to our fingerprints in that each is different from any other. There are no toe-marks visible, and this distinguishes the elephant track from that of the hippo which has four clearly defined toes. The rhino, rare seen outside the national park, has three toes.

Among the more common birds are the kingfishers and bee-eaters. Apart from the Pied Kingfisher already described, there is the brown Hooded Kingfisher, with brown head and flanks, brilliant blue wings and tail, and large red bill, and the Giant Kingfisher, truly a giant of its kind, whose plumage is mostly mottled black and white except for a chestnut breast and white abdomen in the caser of the male and the reverse in the female. The most common of the bee-eaters are the White-fronted and Little bee-eaters. Both are small birds with metallic bronze-green back and wings. The White-fronted Bee-eater has pinkish underparts and a red collar with white “chin” and forehead, while the Little Bee-eater has yellow underparts and black collar. Both have black eye-stripes. They are usually seen perching in treetops or on stumps, from which they make swift darting flights to catch insects on the wing.

One of the strangest birds found nesting in this area is the Hammerkop. Although often referred to as a stork, it is in fact neither a stork nor a heron, but is considered to be somewhere between the two. About the size of a duck, this insignificant brown wader builds an enormous untidy nest of sticks and all kinds of detritus washed up by the river - these nests may be seen in trees at various points along the left-hand bank and on some of the islands.

Despite its untidy appearance, the nest takes six months to build and consists of a dome inside which is an incubating chamber, connected to the surface of the underside by a passage through which all the scraps of fish, droppings and other refuse from the main chamber are ejected. The position of the entrance prevents access for almost all predators.

Although, as already stated, the bird’s rather small size and brown colouring render it insignificant at a distance, closer inspection will reveal a somewhat grotesque head, mad so by the heavy bill and wedge-shaped tuft of feathers which combined, form a hammer shape from which the name “Hammerkop” originates. The appearance, the peculiar whistling cry and the apparent wisdom in its nesting habits have made it an object of superstition among different tribes throughout the continent, and in some cases, huts, over which the bird has flown will be destroyed and rebuilt elsewhere.

The Big Tree:
Upstream from the Falls, a short distance from the river is a large baobab known as “
The Big Tree”. Beneath its massive branches, the early pioneers made their camps and it became a traditional gathering place for those crossing the river to the Old Drift settlement and later to Livingstone.

Despite its considerable size (16 metres around the trunk and 20 metres height), it is not the largest of its kind. Baobabs are found throughout the drier savannahs of Africa and this particular species, Adansonia digitata, is the largest and the most common. The grotesquely bulbous trunk and fat, root-like branches give the impression that the tree is growing upside down, in fact it is common belief that a legendary evil spirit once grew angry with the baobab spirit and tore up all the trees, later regretting his hasty temper and replanting them - the wrong way up. This extraordinary structure is in fact an adaption to dry conditions. Apart from the bark, which is woody and fibrous, the tree is composed mostly of a great thickness of spongy, water-storing tissue and the vast reserves of water contained in the tree help it to survive times of drought. Water can be extracted from the tree by cutting into the bark, a property which has proved invaluable to thirsty travellers.

The large, waxy, white flower which appears during the early rainy season is followed by a large, oval pod which consists of a pinkish pulpy substance and large, flat seeds. The slightly acid pulp is edible, and when dried, forms a powder from cream of tartar is derived. The seeds are also edible and have a high Vitamin C content. Although the wood is practically useless, the bark can be beaten to form a tough fibre which is used for making rope, fishing nets, clothing, etc.

A close relative of the Adasonia digitata is the Northern Australian “Bottle Tree”, Adasonia gregori, which is similar but does not grow to such a great size.