DAR ES SALAAM:
To most travellers, Dar es Salaam is just a convenient port of call on the way to more exotic destinations of Zanzibar, the game parks, Pemba or Mafia Islands. This is a great pity, because “Dar”, as it is affectionately called, is a fascinating rabbit warren of a tropical port, often surprising the unwary wanderer with scenes of breathtaking beauty. While Dodoma has been appointed as the new capital of Tanzania, Dar is the real capital, a hustling, bustling seaport that straddles some of the most important sea routes on earth.

Life in Dar es Salaam revolves around the huge harbour, with the business district fanning out from here in a series of fascinating side and main streets. There is something irresistible about whiling away a few hours sitting at the water’s edge, watching dhows, as traditionally rigged as they have been for centuries, slipping under the bows of huge cruise liners and cargo ships as they skillfully navigate the waters of the port. On the northern arm of the harbour is Kivukoni Front, with its bustling fish market, where every morning at dawn the dhows sail in to offload the night’s catch, and yelling fishwives compete with each other for the best of the catch.

The city itself is an eclectic mix of Swahili, German, Asian and British architecture, reflecting its colonial past and more recent history. It is a relatively new city – Sultan Majid bin Said, then the sultan of Zanzibar, saw the potential of Dar as a deepwater port because of its strategic position at the centre of the East African coast. In 1866, he began work on his palace, built of coral blocks hewn on Changuu Island off Zanzibar. But he died before its completion and the palace fell into ruin – but not before he gave the tiny port its name – “Haven of Peace”.

Eleven years later, the German colonialists revived the plan and seized Dar from its Arab rulers, fighting off an uprising by the Bushiri local tribe. The Teutonic order they imposed on the chaotic little port is reflected today in the neatly laid out grid patterns of streets fanning out around the port, and in several grand edifices scattered around the waterfront, most notably the German Hospital, the Lutheran Church and St Joseph’s Cathedral. Other places worth a visit in the city centre include the botanical gardens, and the adjacent National Museum. The Museum is a hidden treasure with exhibits of cultural, ecological and historical significance, where archaeology buffs can see the skull of “Nutcracker Man”, antique tribal artefacts and some fascinating World War One memorabilia. The building itself is remarkable, containing unique sculptures, colourful tiles and intricate carvings, and is surrounded by a peaceful garden that occasionally hosts concerts and plays.

Venture toward the tight streets and colourful buildings of Karaikoo to get a good sense of the daily goings-on for thousands of Tanzanians. An enormous structure houses the largest covered market in Africa and the hive-like activity continues uninterrupted from dawn to dusk as Karaikoo is also a crossroads, a major bus terminus, and a shopper's paradise.

On the west side of Masasani Peninsula is the city's best option for ocean-side recreation. The Slipway is a collection of shops, boutiques, beauty salons, ice cream parlours, restaurants, apartments, pubs and a weekly crafts bazaar every Saturday and Sunday. Boats depart from here for daytrips to nearby Bongoyo island. The open-air Village Museum is located on New Bagamoyo road and features 18 traditional houses from different ethnic groups throughout Tanzania. In addition to this are traditional dance performances on most afternoons, displays of a variety of agricultural techniques and artisans at work.

Wandering the streets of Dar is nowhere more rewarding than in the Asian business district, along India Street and the intersecting Indira Ghandi Street. Here the flavours and smells are of a little Bombay, and if there’s anything you need to buy for your holiday, this is where you’ll find it. In this concentrated section of the city, you’ll find some of the best restaurants in East Africa, notably on Jamhuri, Mkunguni, Zanaki and Kisutu Streets. Further afield, take a taxi or walk up Ohio Street to where it becomes Upanga Road near the Gymkhana Club and look out for the distinctive Makuti-palm roofed building that houses Nyumba ya Saana, the House of Art. Begun in 1972 by an American nun, the co-operative supports nearly 200 young artists, with work ranging from batiks through carvings, oil paintings, pottery, weaving and clothing.